Blog & lookbook - What do you wear under your armor?

In this blog, we describe the most common options and variations of what people wear under plate armor.

Introduction

Since classical antiquity, chainmail has been used to protect the body on the battlefield. Chainmail provided good protection against cuts and reasonable protection against thrusts and blows from enemy weapons. Even after the invention of plate armor, chainmail components continued to be used.

From the 13th century onwards, plate armor began to develop. Plate armor offered better protection against thrusts and blows than chainmail. In the early 13th century, especially vulnerable parts of the arms and legs were protected with armor components. Sometimes, a coat of plates was worn over the chainmail. This was a leather tunic made up of multiple plates attached to the tunic.

Later, more advanced armor components were developed, such as the cuirass, shoulder plates, full leg armor, and arm pieces.

However, aside from the armor, it's just as important to pay attention to what you wear underneath it.

Gambesons & Lendeniers

Undergarments are just as important as the armor itself. Since antiquity, a protective layer has been worn under chainmail. While few examples of this survive, we know that chainmail alone was not enough to protect the body from heavy blows. Chainmail is effective against cutting motions from weapons but provides insufficient protection against thrusts from spears and swords or blows from axes.

Gambesons

For this reason, the Normans wore a reinforced tunic made of coarse-woven linen or wool under their chainmail. This evolved into what is known as the gambeson. In reality, we know very little about the gambesons worn by the Normans and Vikings, except that a protective tunic was worn beneath the chainmail.

In reenactment battles, Vikings and Normans wear gambesons for safety. The difference from what was historically worn under chainmail is a small compromise with modern safety standards.

Starting from the 12th century, gambesons clearly appear in manuscripts. A gambeson was a padded tunic made up of multiple layers of linen, sometimes as many as 12 to 24 layers.

These layers of linen allowed the gambeson to act as a cushion, absorbing impacts that would otherwise cause trauma to the body—such as a blow from an axe.

Historical sources mention that gambesons were even effective at absorbing the impact of arrows. This made gambesons valuable even without the addition of expensive chainmail, which was only available to the wealthy aristocracy. In some cases, gambesons were likely worn over chainmail, possibly to protect the expensive chainmail or to conceal the type of armor someone was wearing.

Armor Belts and Lendeniers

In 13th-century sources, there are references to chainmail, leggings, or mail chausses being secured with a special belt (lendenier) around the waist. It is likely that this practice began much earlier, with Crusaders and Norman knights already wearing lendeniers tightly fastened around the waist to keep their mail chausses in place. Lendeniers probably remained in use until the 15th century, after which they were increasingly replaced by gambesons or arming jackets equipped with laces at the bottom.

From the 14th century onward, lendeniers were also used to secure steel leg armor. This way, the weight of the leg pieces was distributed around the hips and waist rather than resting directly on the leg itself. Otherwise, the leg armor would gradually slip down during battle.

12th to Early 14th Century

This gambeson is based on illustrations found in the Maciejowski Bible, dated between 1244 and 1254.

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/gambeson-maciejowski-bible.html

In combination with a lendenier https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/armor/plate-armour/armor-belts/ that was likely worn underneath the gambeson.

Second Half of the 14th Century to Early 15th Century

This gambeson is modeled after an original worn by Charles de Blois (1319–1364).

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/late-14th-century-mi-parti-gambeson.html

In combination with a lendenier https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/armor/plate-armour/armor-belts/ that was likely worn underneath the gambeson.

15th to 16th Century

Gambesons and arming jackets: Armor components can be directly attached to these gambesons.

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/15th-century-doublet-red.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/15th-century-doublet.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/15th-century-acketon.html

Chainmail Coifs and Supplements

Chainmail Coifs

The chainmail coif is the earliest example of a supplement worn under the helmet. Chainmail coifs were used starting from the Norman period around 1000 AD and remained in use until the 15th century, when they were largely replaced by chainmail collars (also known as bishop's mantles or standards).

The chainmail coif protects the neck and head. A helmet was often worn over the coif, though not always. In some 13th and 14th-century manuscripts, a secret (a type of padded cap) is even shown worn under the chainmail coif. However, the most common way to wear the chainmail coif was either under the helmet or on its own.

Under the chainmail coif, a wambais cap is worn. This prevents the chainmail from directly touching the hair. The wambais cap, like the gambeson, also helps absorb impacts to the head.

Unriveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chainmail-coif-alaric-9-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-visor-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-visor-blackened-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/black-chainmail-coif-brass-edge-butted-round-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neckline-bronzed-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chainmail-coif-galvanized-unriveted-round-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-hood-spring-steel-unriveted-round-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/deepeeka-chainmail-coif-butted-round-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/deepeeka-chainmail-coif-mild-steel.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-triangular-neckline-zinc-plated-9-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-triangular-neckline-bronzed-9-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neckline-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neckline-zinc-coated-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-coif-black-unriveted-round-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-triangular-visor-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-triangular-visor-blackened-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chainmail-coif-alaric-bronzed-9-mm.html

Riveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-visor-round-rings-round-rivets-8.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neckline-flat-rings-round-rivets.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-triangular-visor-round-rings-round-rive.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neckline-round-rings-round-rivet.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neckline-mixed-riveted-rings-6-m.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neckline-flat-rings-wedge-rivets.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/coif-with-square-neck-mixed-flat-ring-wedge-rivet.html

Chainmail Aventail

In the 14th century, the chainmail aventail was introduced. This ‘collar’ protected parts of the neck and face like the chainmail coif, but it was not worn under the helmet. Instead, it was attached to the lower edge of the helmet. This attachment could be done with vivers (or vivers). Many of the bascinets we offer come with standard vivers. In the 14th century, the great helm and secret (often worn under the great helm) evolved into the bascinet. The bascinet provided not only good protection but also the freedom to see and breathe more easily. During one-on-one combat, the great helm was sometimes removed, with the head protected by the coif and aventail. With the bascinet, this was no longer necessary, so the chainmail coif only needed to protect the neck.

Gambeson Supplements Under Your Chainmail Aventail

In various 15th-century manuscripts and sculptures, it is shown that a gambeson collar was worn under the chainmail aventail. Manuscripts illustrate examples where these supplements were both worn and not worn, so both practices are historically accurate.

The gambeson collar can be easily sewn to the lower layer of chainmail rings, ensuring it stays securely attached to the chainmail aventail.

This gambeson collar, for instance, is ideal for this purpose.

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/marshal-historical-padded-gorget.html

Vervelles

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/vervelles-brass-pins-for-bascinet-helmets-and-arm.html

Unriveted aventails

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-aventail-zinc-plated-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-aventail-bronzed-8-mm.html

Riveted aventails

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/aventail-flat-rings-wedge-rivets-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/aventail-mixed-flat-rings-wedge-rivets-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-aventail-round-rings-round-rivets-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-aventail-flat-rings-round-rivets-8-mm.html

Chainmail Standard (Chainmail Collar)

In the early 15th century, a different form of chainmail neck protection developed. Unlike the aventail, the chainmail collar or chainmail standard was not attached around the neck. Standards were worn under the armor, offering several advantages.

The chainmail standard provided protection for the neck and covered the gaps between the neck or helmet and the cuirass. It also added extra comfort. Often, armor was not custom-fitted to the wearer, so the chainmail collar helped prevent irritation from the cuirass and shoulder pieces. It also offered additional comfort when wearing a bevor. Historical manuscripts show that the bevor was not always worn; in such cases, the chainmail standard was the only form of neck protection. Since the neck is one of the most vulnerable parts of the body, significant emphasis was placed on neck protection. There are examples of chainmail collars being worn both under and over the armor.

Unriveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-bishops-mantle-butted-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-bishops-mantle-butted-rings-m.html

Riveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-bishops-mantle-riveted-round-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-bishops-mantle-flat-rings-round-rivets.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-bishops-mantle-flat-rings-wedge-rivets.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-bishops-mantle-flat-mixed-rings.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chainmail-aventail-mixed-riveted-round-rings-9mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-coif-black-mixed-riveted-flat-rings-9-m.html

Haubergeon

In the 14th century, plate armor evolved and was worn over the chainmail. In some traditions, such as the Italian, it remained common in the 15th century to wear a chainmail haubergeon under the armor. The chainmail haubergeon is a shorter type of chainmail, often with half-length sleeves.

One advantage of wearing a chainmail haubergeon under your armor is that chainmail can be quickly donned. During military campaigns, you might be approached by the enemy swiftly or unexpectedly. There might not be enough time to put on full armor, but a chainmail haubergeon could be put on immediately and provided good protection for the torso.

Unriveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/hauberk-with-mid-length-sleeves-bronzed-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/hauberk-with-mid-length-sleeves-8-mm.html

Riveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/halflong-hauberk-mixed-flat-rings-wedge-rivets-8m.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-hauberk-mixed-rings-6-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/hauberk-with-mid-length-sleeves-flat-rings-round-r.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/hauberk-with-midlength-sleeves-round-rings-round-r.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/halflong-hauberk-mixed-flat-rings-round-rivets-8mm.html

Chainmail Sleeves and Voiders

Chainmail hauberks are heavy, and a significant portion of the protection they offered was already covered by plate armor, such as the arms and chest. Thus, in the early 14th century, chainmail supplements were developed. These provided the mobility of chainmail while being significantly lighter than a full hauberk.

14th and 15th-century armor often left an opening at the armpit, between the cuirass and shoulder pieces. To address this, chainmail sleeves and voiders were developed from the early 14th century. Various historical examples show how these sleeves were attached, but the most common method remains unclear. Some voiders were directly fastened to the gambeson with linen thread or leather laces. Others had leather straps and buckles for attachment. In some originals, both sleeves are connected and the voiders are worn as a kind of overgarment. It is also possible to have a pair of voiders or sleeves with textile linings, with these linings secured together using leather laces or straps, as seen in 16th-century examples.

Unriveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/pair-of-voiders-butted-8-mm.html

Riveted

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/pair-of-voiders-flat-rings-wedge-rivets-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/pair-of-voiders-riveted-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/pair-of-voiders-mixed-flat-rings-wedge-rivets-8mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chainmail-voiders-mixed-flat-rings-round-rivets-9.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/flat-ring-chainmail-paired-full-sleeves-riveted-an.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/flat-ring-chainmail-half-haubergeon-joined-sleeves.html

Chainmail Skirts

In medieval inventories, chainmail voiders often appear alongside chainmail skirts, likely because it was logical for the voiders and the chainmail skirt to be the components worn under the armor.

The chainmail skirt protects the gap between the cuirass and the legs, covering the groin and hips.

Unriveted Chainmail Skirts

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chainmail-skirt-richard-mild-steel-butted-bronzed.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chainmail-skirt-richard-mild-steel-butted.html

Riveted Chainmail Skirts

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-skirt-mixed-flat-rings-wedge-rivets-8.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-skirt-flat-rings-round-rivets-8-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-skirt-mixed-rings-6-mm.html

https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-skirt-flat-rings-wedge-rivets.html

Rondels, Besagews

As part of the plate armor, worn over the chainmail supplements, rondels or besagues were often used. These small steel plates provided additional protection for the vulnerable gap between the shoulder pieces and the cuirass.