Introduction
The armor of a knight (or man-at-arms) evolved throughout the Middle Ages. In this blog, we offer a glimpse into the equipment of a French knight in the late fourteenth century to help you choose your own composition.
The second half of the fourteenth century was a period of conflict and significant change in weapons and military technology. The Hundred Years' War between France and England played a major role in this development. This conflict over the succession to the French throne lasted from 1337 to 1453 and involved long periods of war interrupted by short periods of peace, which both countries needed to rebuild after intense fighting.
Although knights and men-at-arms mainly fought on horseback, in the English army of the fourteenth century, they were increasingly deployed as heavy infantry. To counter French cavalry, they fought alongside English archers equipped with longbows, which could pierce mail armor with Bodkin-tipped arrows. Pole weapons such as the billhook were developed to pull riders off their horses. This led to further developments in plate armor, which became more widely used to protect French heavy cavalry. The French army used powerful crossbows and heavy lances against the English men-at-arms, which resulted in heavier armor for these soldiers as well. The war thus triggered an arms race between England and France, which had a major influence on the development of European plate armor in the late fourteenth century.
Armor Developments
Due to new military developments, there was a transition from chainmail and coats of plates to full plate armor. The well-known North Italian Churburg Armor from around 1360 is a good example of armor during this period of transition.
Early armor was still designed to be worn with full chainmail. The breastplate was small and simple, without ‘faulds’—movable plates that protect the hips—although this feature was under development. The construction of the breastplate itself was derived from the coat of plates of the early fourteenth century and still consisted of several large, riveted plates joined together.
The arms, shoulders, and legs were protected by pieces of plate armor that moved with the body and provided hard protection over chainmail. Gauntlets were no longer half-gloves worn over chainmail mittens, but were now made entirely of steel plate armor in the shape of hourglass gauntlets.
The bascinet had evolved from a simple helmet worn under the 'great helm' in the early fourteenth century into a visor helmet that could be used on its own. The development of the visor provided full head protection, but was much lighter and more practical to use than the great helm. Knights and men-at-arms no longer needed to take off or put on a heavy helmet to switch between visibility and protection. Bascinets of this time did not offer neck protection by themselves but were often worn with a chainmail collar, known as an aventail.
Guillaume's Composition
It is the spring of 1360. Guillaume is a French knight in the Hundred Years' War between England and France. He fights on the battlefield as a mounted knight but stands guard in the French city of Chartres for the abbot of Cluny. He spends much of his time in the city's cathedral, trying to prevent news of a defeat near Paris and an overwhelming English army from shaking his resolve. His armor is always within reach, and he sees a passing hailstorm as a bad omen: it seems the French are about to lose the city. However, this same hailstorm would, in the coming days, lead to years of peace between England and France.
Note: Guillaume's composition is based on the equipment of a knight from the middle of the Hundred Years' War, but similar equipment was used in Italy, the Low Countries, and the Holy Roman Empire.
Outfit
When Guillaume is not wearing his armor, he follows the fashion of the late fourteenth century. He wears a long woolen cotehardie, braies with chausses, pointed shoes, and a bycocket as headgear. When in a more military setting but not wishing to have his full armor put on by his squire, he wears his gambeson. On his belt, he carries a pouch and a dagger.
Hat and Cap
The bycocket (also known as the type of hat worn by Robin Hood) was a popular headgear in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. It was worn with or without a cape by peasants, townspeople, and nobility alike.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/robin-hood-brown.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/cap-bertram-natural.html
Cotehardie
In the fourteenth century, long, flowing robes were in fashion. Guillaume wears a blue woolen cotehardie over a light undershirt. Bright colors were preferred, contrary to how this period is often portrayed. When affordable, clothing was richly decorated, but even undecorated garments were very expensive in the Middle Ages. Wearing an undershirt helped keep the outer layer cleaner from body oils and reduced the need for frequent washing, which also helped prevent discoloration.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/shirt-ulrich-natural.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/renaissance-tunic-rafael-wool-blue.html
Braies with Chausses
In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, chausses (long stockings) were generally worn. These were attached to the braies (underwear) and worn under long robes.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/trousers-gisbert.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chausses-brandolf-brown.html
Belt
People from all levels of society attached pouches and other items to their belts. When assembling your outfit, think about what you would find important to carry in your daily life as a knight, such as your utensils and your sword.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ihc-belt-replica-1300-1500.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/bag-with-three-compartments.html
Shoes
In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, men wore pointed shoes. Over time, the fashion trend was to make these shoes increasingly longer and pointier. On the battlefield, however, function took precedence over form, and the shoes were less pointed to prevent tripping during combat.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/late-medieval-shoes-linhard.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/medieval-poulaines-1200-1400.html
TIP: To give your outfit an authentic appearance, consider adding your own accessories and adjustments. Hats were often decorated with feathers and brooches. Jewelry was used not only to display wealth but also status: Nobles wore signet rings to seal important documents. French knights in the late fourteenth century who belonged to a chivalric order wore special chains to indicate their status. The accessories you choose help tell your own story.
Armor
The armor Guillaume wears consists of several layers. Over his undershirt, he dons his gambeson and chainmail. On top of that, he wears a tunic in mi-parti colors and his plate armor. Click here to read more about what to wear under your armor.
TIP: Throughout the Middle Ages, knights had squires or other servants to help them put on their armor: plate armor was rarely designed to be donned by the wearer alone. We recommend asking someone to assist you with fitting, dressing, and adjusting your armor. Click here to read how to put on armor.
Gambeson
Many garments from this period were also worn in a half-and-half color pattern, known as mi-parti. This is evident in the gambeson that Guillaume wears both on its own and under his plate armor. A gambeson provides a padded layer of protection under chainmail and plate armor but was worn on its own by poorer soldiers. Gambesons of this period were long and thick to provide adequate protection under chainmail and early armor. However, a gambeson was not a comfortable garment in the summer, so if Guillaume could, he preferred to wear his cotehardie.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/late-14th-century-mi-parti-gambeson.html
Armor Belt
Often, gambesons were equipped with points to attach leg armor, but this was not always the case. To attach leg armor and chainmail skirts to the body, an armor belt was frequently worn.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/medieval-armor-belt-black.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/medieval-armor-belt-natural.html
TIP: When choosing your protection, check what fits with your armor. Not sure? Feel free to send us a message!
Houndskull Bascinet
On his head, Guillaume wears a houndskull bascinet with an adjustable visor, allowing him to easily switch between full face protection and an open helmet for giving commands and surveying the battlefield. The pointed “snout” and top of the helmet help to deflect weapons and arrows. The bascinet was usually worn with a mail aventail attached for neck protection, but Guillaume wears a bishop’s mantle for the same function.
Bascinet
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/churburg-bascinet-2-mm-battle-ready.html
Aventail
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/chain-mail-aventail-flat-rings-round-rivets-8-mm.html
Bishop's Mantle
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-bishops-mantle-flat-mixed-rings.html
Breastplate
The breastplate Guillaume wears consists of several articulated plates that conform to the body. This construction stems from the coat of plates used in the early fourteenth century.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/churburg-chestplate-16-mm.html
Hourglass Gauntlets
To protect his hands and wrists, Guillaume wears hourglass gauntlets with individual finger protection. This type of armor glove provided good mobility for the wrists and fingers. Over time, these were largely replaced by early mitten gauntlets in the fifteenth century, although some knights still preferred the dexterity of individually armored fingers.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/hourglass-gauntlets-1350-1410.html
Arm and Shoulder Armor
Guillaume’s arms and shoulders are protected by plate armor pieces that move with the body. Since forearms are a large target, they are fully protected with plate armor. However, plate armor was not yet advanced enough to cover the upper arms completely, leaving only the outer part of the arm protected. The shoulder plates are simple and robust, intended to be worn under a mail collar to protect the collarbone.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/pauldrons-1350-1425.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/churburg-arm-armor-16-mm.html
Leg Armor
Guillaume’s thighs are protected with plate armor, but he leaves his lower legs unprotected. This is because he prefers more mobility when wearing armor. It’s up to you to make similar decisions about balancing protection and mobility, which we will discuss further under the section “the perfect armor.”
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/full-leg-armour.html
Jupon (Surcoat)
In much of the art from this period, it is seen that a padded jupon, or surcoat, was worn over the armor. This was done to display the wearer’s heraldry and to protect the armor from the elements. However, there are also some depictions from this period showing the jupon being worn over chainmail but under the armor, and this is still a topic of debate among historians. In this composition, we have chosen to depict this with an extra-large gambeson.
It’s your choice whether to wear a similar jupon over or under your plate armor, or to omit it entirely. This choice depends on the year, regional differences, and personal preference. In France and Burgundy, the jupon was generally worn loosely over the entire chainmail (and often the armor), while in England and Italy, it was worn only over the breastplate. After 1400, the French and Burgundians gradually adopted this English-Italian style. By the early fifteenth century, the practice of wearing fabric over plate armor disappeared, and the so-called ‘white armor’ became fashionable.
Weapons
Guillaume carries a one-handed sword and a shield displaying his family’s heraldry. While mounted, he would also have used a lance. The shield was developed in the early fourteenth century to be used both on horseback and on foot. Since his legs are protected by plate armor, Guillaume’s shield can be made more compact and agile than the large kite shields of earlier centuries.
Due to further developments in plate armor, shields became obsolete among knights and men-at-arms in the late fourteenth century. Many knights chose to fight with two-handed swords, axes, war hammers, or pole weapons. It is entirely up to you which of these weapons to include in your late-fourteenth-century knightly equipment. Here are some examples that fit with this setup:
Sword and Shield
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/french-medieval-knight-sword-joinville.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/deepeeka-white-kite-shield.html
Two-Handed Sword
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/hand-and-a-half-sword-battle-ready-tempered.html
Pole Weapons
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/ulfberth-venetian-pole-axe-1530.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/early-glaive-head-1350-1400.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/lucerne-hammer-hand-forged.html
Dagger
On his belt, Guillaume carries a rondel dagger designed to penetrate the gaps in plate armor in case he faces another heavily armored opponent in battle. In daily life, this dagger was also used as a self-defense weapon.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.com/en/14th-century-roundel-dagger.html
The Perfect Armor
Contrary to popular belief, armor was not designed to make the wearer completely invulnerable. Armor was always a compromise between mobility and protection. This compromise can be seen clearly in the difference between war armor and tournament armor (all our armor is designed for battle). In tournaments, much heavier but less mobile armor was worn to fully protect the wearer from the impact of a lance. This was possible because tournaments were not meant as spectacles but as real fights to the death. On the battlefield, mobility was far more important, so war armor offered less protection but was lighter, allowing for greater freedom of movement.
Historically, armor was worn by individuals who were highly trained and specialized in the warfare of their time. These individuals made many choices between protection and mobility, often based on function and personal preference. For example, many foot soldiers wore less protection on their lower legs for greater comfort during marches, while cavalry were often more fully armored. Knights sometimes chose to protect their hands with mittens that restricted finger movement, while at other times, they used gauntlets with individual finger protection. Consider what is important to you and adjust your armor components and configuration according to your personal preferences.
On medieval battlefields, only the aristocracy wore fully custom-made armor. The rest of the armies wore armor that had been gathered or passed down from previous wearers. These soldiers would adapt the collected pieces of armor to their size and decorate them with religious symbols and the heraldry of their lord. The armor pieces we sell are not custom-made but are adjustable. As the owner of armor, you will regularly need to adjust it to fit your measurements for optimal comfort. This can be done by lengthening straps, adding straps, adjusting arm and leg pieces, and adding laces.
For more information on modifying mail and armor, see our knowledge base.